When the base is still sound, you don't need a new driveway or lot — you need a new surface. Beaumont Asphalt Co. resurfaces pavement across the Golden Triangle for roughly half the cost of full replacement.
Not sure whether you need a new surface or a new lot? Call Beaumont Asphalt Co. at (409) 555-0100 — you'll get a straight assessment either way.
Resurfacing is the mid-range option between patching and replacement — and when conditions are right, it's the best value in pavement.
| Project | Typical range | What drives it |
|---|---|---|
| Asphalt overlay | $1.75–$3.50/sq ft | Thickness, area, and prep required beforehand |
| Full replacement (for comparison) | $3–$7/sq ft | Tear-out, base rebuild, and new asphalt |
| Milling before overlay | $0.40–$1.20 per sq ft | Needed where added height would cause problems |
| Chip seal | $1–$2.50 per sq ft | Long drives and large areas; lowest cost per foot |
| Patching before overlay | $8–$18 per sq ft | Only the failed sections, repaired first |
These are typical Texas market ranges for 2026, published so you can budget before you call. They are not a quote — actual pricing depends on your specific site, and the only number that counts is the written estimate the contractor hands you after measuring.
The deciding factor. A sound base means an overlay will last; a failed one means it won't, no matter how well the new surface is laid.
Cracks sealed and failed sections patched before the overlay goes on. Skipping this is why some overlays fail early — problems telegraph straight through.
Adding 1.5–2 inches of height can create problems at garage doors, thresholds, and drainage structures. Milling removes the old surface first, at extra cost.
Typically 1.5–2 inches for driveways and light lots, more for heavier traffic.
Like all paving, larger areas cost less per square foot.
If water currently stands on the surface, an overlay alone won't fix it — grade correction has to be part of the plan.
You'll get an honest assessment of the base — including if the answer is that resurfacing won't hold.
Resurfacing costs roughly half of replacement, so it's worth knowing which one your pavement actually needs before you accept a bid for either.
An overlay on a failed base is money burned — it looks perfect for a season, then the same cracks come straight back through. We'd rather tell you that before you pay us than after.
Chip seal — sometimes called tar-and-chip or a seal-and-chip surface — is a legitimate paving method that most residential contractors never mention, largely because it's less profitable than hot-mix. For certain properties around the Golden Triangle it's genuinely the right answer, so it's worth understanding.
A layer of hot asphalt emulsion is sprayed over the prepared surface, crushed aggregate is spread over it immediately, and the whole thing is rolled to embed the stone into the binder. The result is a durable, textured surface with the aggregate locked in place.
Long rural driveways, large properties, ranch and farm access roads, overflow parking, and low-speed private roads. Anywhere the area is large enough that the per-square-foot saving over hot-mix becomes substantial, and a smooth showroom finish isn't the priority.
Chip seal costs meaningfully less per square foot than hot-mix asphalt and provides good traction and water resistance. In exchange, the surface is rougher and noisier underfoot and under tyre, some loose stone works free in the first weeks, it can't be sealcoated the same way, and it doesn't give the smooth black finish most homeowners picture. It's also not well suited to areas with tight turning or heavy stationary loads.
Short suburban driveways where appearance matters, anywhere you'll be shovelling or pressure washing regularly, and areas taking constant heavy truck traffic. In those cases hot-mix is worth the extra cost and we'll say so.
Chip seal is worth asking about because on a long ranch drive it can be the difference between paving the whole thing and paving none of it. If your property fits, you should be given both options with real numbers so you can choose.
An overlay typically runs $1.75–$3.50/sq ft compared with $3–$7/sq ft for full replacement — roughly half the cost. Milling adds $0.40–$1.20 per square foot where it's needed, and any patching or crack sealing beforehand is quoted separately. Typical Texas ranges for 2026; your surface gets assessed and priced exactly, free.
The base has to be sound. Walk it after rain: if water stands, sections feel soft under a vehicle, or you see interconnected alligator cracking across large areas, the base has failed and an overlay won't hold. Isolated cracks on firm pavement are a good candidate. We'll confirm on site at no cost.
On a sound base with proper prep, typically 8–15 years — and longer if it's sealcoated on schedule. Over a compromised base it can start showing the old cracks again within a year or two, which is exactly why the assessment matters more than the paving.
Milling grinds off the top layer of existing asphalt before the new surface goes down. It's needed when added height would cause problems — garage door clearance, thresholds, kerb heights, or drainage inlets. If your driveway meets a garage slab flush, you'll likely need it.
They can — it's called reflective cracking, and it's the main risk with any overlay. Proper crack sealing and patching before the overlay goes down substantially reduces it. Anyone who overlays without prepping the existing surface is setting you up for exactly this.
In practice they're used interchangeably for the same thing: laying a new asphalt surface over existing pavement. 'Resurfacing' sometimes implies milling the old surface off first. What matters is what's actually included — ask for the scope in writing.
Chip seal is asphalt emulsion sprayed down and covered with crushed aggregate, then rolled. It costs meaningfully less per square foot than hot-mix and suits long rural drives, ranch roads, and large low-speed areas. The trade-off is a rougher, noisier surface with some loose stone initially — it's a genuinely good option for the right property and the wrong one for a short suburban driveway.
Usually yes. We phase the work section by section, or work overnight and on weekends, so part of the lot stays open throughout. We'll give you a written schedule before we start.
Yes — a new surface covers all existing markings. We restripe once the surface has cured, and it's a good moment to correct a layout or bring ADA stalls up to current standards if they're not compliant.
Only when the base is sound. On good base it's clearly the better value. On a failed base you pay for the overlay, watch it fail, and then pay for the replacement you needed originally — so the honest assessment upfront is the part that actually saves you money.
Tell us about your project and we'll get you a fast, honest quote — most within the same day.