A fresh asphalt driveway boosts your home's curb appeal and value — and most are installed in a single day. Beaumont Asphalt Co. builds smooth, clean, long-lasting driveways for homeowners across the Golden Triangle.
Give your home a fresh look — call Beaumont Asphalt Co. at (409) 555-0100 for a free driveway quote, or request one online in under a minute.
The driveway gets measured, drainage checked, and you get an honest written price with no pressure.
The old surface comes out as needed and a solid, compacted base goes down.
Hot-mix asphalt is laid and rolled smooth — most driveways finish in a single day.
You get clear guidance on cure time and sealcoating so the driveway lasts for years.
A straight answer, since almost nobody publishes one. Here's what homeowners in Texas are actually paying in 2026.
| Project | Typical range | What drives it |
|---|---|---|
| Standard two-car driveway | $1,920–$4,480 | Typical 640 sq ft (16' × 40') — the most common residential job |
| Per square foot (new install) | $3–$7/sq ft | Size, access, and base condition |
| Resurfacing over sound asphalt | $1.75–$3.50/sq ft | Far cheaper than replacement when the base is still good |
| Tear-out & disposal of old surface | $1–$3 per sq ft | Added when the existing surface can't be paved over |
| Widening / extra parking pad | $3–$7/sq ft | Priced the same as new work, by area |
| Sealcoating (after cure) | $0.18–$0.40/sq ft | Recommended 6–12 months after install, then every 2–3 years |
These are typical Texas market ranges for 2026, published so you can budget before you call. They are not a quote — actual pricing depends on your specific site, and the only number that counts is the written estimate the contractor hands you after measuring.
The main driver. A long rural drive costs more in total but usually less per square foot than a short suburban one.
Paving over sound existing asphalt saves real money. Breaking out and hauling away a failed surface or old concrete adds to the job.
If the existing base is stable it can be built on. If it's soft, saturated, or was never properly built, it has to be rebuilt — the biggest single variable in any driveway quote.
A flat, well-draining site is straightforward. Steep grades, drainage correction, or a driveway that currently sends water toward the house adds work.
Room to manoeuvre a paver and roller keeps costs down. Narrow gates, tight turns, overhanging trees, or landscaping to protect mean more hand work.
2 inches suits a normal car-only driveway. If you park an RV, boat, or work truck, tell us — that needs a heavier build, and it's cheaper to do now than to redo later.
It gets measured, the drainage checked, and you get an itemised written price — free, and with no sales pressure.
Before quoting a full replacement, it's worth knowing whether you actually need one. Resurfacing costs roughly half — but only works in the right conditions.
A driveway resurfaced for half the money beats a replacement you didn't need. If resurfacing is genuinely the right call for your property, that is what should be quoted — and a crew unwilling to tell you so is telling you something.
A driveway is a fifteen-to-twenty-year purchase, and the difference between the low end and high end of that range comes down to a handful of things — some ours, some yours.
Fresh asphalt continues to cure and harden for six to twelve months, and it stays softest through its first Southeast Texas summer. During that period, avoid parking in exactly the same spot every day, turning your steering wheel while stationary, and putting concentrated point loads on it — motorcycle kickstands, trailer jacks, jack stands, and ladder feet all leave permanent dents. A scrap of plywood under a jack stand costs nothing and prevents a mark you'll look at for years.
The perimeter of a driveway has no lateral support, so it's where crumbling almost always begins. Try not to drive over the edge when turning in, and keep soil or gravel built up level with it so the edge is supported. If your driveway has an unsupported edge along a drop, mention it and we'll discuss options.
The first sealcoat should wait six to twelve months so the surface can fully cure — sealing too early traps oils and can leave a soft, tacky finish. After that, every two to three years. Sealcoating is what blocks UV oxidation and keeps water out of the surface, and it's the cheapest thing you can do to extend the life of the whole installation.
A crack sealed the season it appears costs very little. The same crack left for three years has been feeding water into your base every time it rains, and the repair is no longer a crack repair. If you see one open up, it's worth a phone call.
Proper grade so water sheets off rather than sitting, a compacted base built in lifts, correct asphalt depth for how you'll actually use the drive, and compaction achieved while the mix is still hot. Those four things are settled on installation day and can't be corrected later — which is exactly why they're the first things cut to win a cheap bid.
Most residential driveways run $3–$7/sq ft, putting a standard two-car driveway of about 640 sq ft in the $1,920–$4,480 range. Removing an old surface adds roughly $1–$3 per square foot. Those are typical Texas ranges for 2026 — a local contractor will measure yours and give you an exact written price for free.
Most standard residential driveways, yes — including tear-out, base prep, and paving. Larger drives, jobs needing significant base rebuilding, or projects with drainage work may run into a second day. We'll tell you upfront exactly what to expect rather than promise a day and disappear.
Usually 24–72 hours depending on temperature and thickness, and a local contractor will give you specific guidance on the day. Be aware it stays relatively soft for its first several weeks — avoid sharp turns while stopped and keep point loads like jack stands and kickstands off it.
With proper base prep and installation, 15–20 years is realistic in our climate, provided it's sealcoated every 2–3 years and cracks are sealed as they appear. Maintenance is genuinely the difference between the low and high end of that range.
For most Beaumont homes, asphalt: it typically costs 40–50% less, installs in a day rather than a week, flexes with our clay soils instead of cracking, and repairs blend in cheaply. Concrete lasts longer on a stable subgrade and doesn't need sealcoating, but costs considerably more upfront and takes about a week to cure.
If the base is still sound and the grade works, yes — resurfacing costs roughly half of a full replacement. If the surface shows widespread alligator cracking, sinking, or standing water, an overlay will fail quickly and isn't worth your money. You'll get an honest assessment of which situation you're in.
Yes — widening for a second vehicle, adding an RV or boat pad, or extending to a shop or garage are common jobs. Tell us what you'll park there so we can spec the right thickness.
Wait 6–12 months so the asphalt fully cures, then every 2–3 years after that. Sealing too early can trap oils and leave a soft finish. We'll let you know roughly when yours will be ready.
New hot-mix asphalt goes down rich black and gradually lightens toward charcoal grey over the first year as it oxidises — that's normal. Sealcoating restores the deep black finish.
No, they're the same thing. 'Blacktop' is just the common name for hot-mix asphalt paving. If a contractor prices 'blacktop' meaningfully differently from 'asphalt', ask what material they're actually quoting.
Tell us about your project and we'll get you a fast, honest quote — most within the same day.